WEAR SHERLOCK: showcasing the clothing and props featured in the BBC show Sherlock, starring Benedict Cumberbatch, Martin Freeman and Mark Gatiss.
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A study in Moriarty
Probably the only clothing brand that every single Sherlock fan knows is that of Moriarty’s two piece suit. After John has bravely grabbed the arch-enemy in question to give Sherlock a chance to escape Moriarty announces that his suit is Westwood as he readjusts himself. The Westwood of which he speaks is of course that of Vivienne Westwood.
Vivienne Westwood is known for her sometimes extreme punk and new wave styling but her range also includes some classically smart and sharply tailored designs. Moriarty’s choice is just that - a two button classic. However, often even classic Vivienne Westwood suits feature a skull and crossbone lining.
Cuffs, lapels and buttons
Westwood’s trademark buttons are a dark amber colour with the brand logo engraved into each. The logo features an orb similar to the British crown jewels with a satellite strip circling around it which gives it a punky, modern feel. The jacket is single breasted (one column of buttons) and the bottom button is undone as the general rule with two button suits. When John grabs Moriarty the logo-embellished buttons of his jacket are easily visible.
These personalised buttons also feature on the cuffs of Westwood’s jackets. Two buttons on the sleeve (as compared to the more common four) is usually the case for city suits and Westwood’s classic range. Cuff buttons often serve no other purpose than pure decoration and aren’t functional. Westwood’s buttons are the same. Moriarty’s cuff buttons are visible when he lifts his hands to make his boastful ‘Westwood’ statement (see image).
Moriarty’s lapels are a simple ‘step’ design (called notch lapels in America). They’re quite thin and the mouth of the notch is an average, medium size. Step lapels are sometimes considered to be the smartest but come in a few different styles based on where the collar meets the lapel and what shape it is. Moriarty’s is very high on his lapel as is common for modern suit styles.
The single vented, slim fit jacket features three pockets: two flap pockets and one breast pocket. The British rolled-shoulder design lifts the fabric at his shoulders slightly, giving the effect that he is actually more built than he is. The worsted fabric is a bright navy and is 100% wool. As covered in A Study in Pocket Squares Moriarty wears a simple white square in a clean edge style. Westwood’s current season of the two button classic is available on her website for £600 / $921
As previously posted, Moriarty wears an Alexander McQueen tie featuring a mix of polka dots and trademark McQueen skulls. The tie is 100% silk and he has tied it in a half-Windsor knot. At five centimeters wide his tie is considered a ‘skinny’ tie. Moriarty’s build means skinny ties suit his frame well. The tie complements the rest of his suit as it is a similar width to his lapels. Generally, the wider your lapels, the wider your tie. McQueen’s tie is available in many different colours but Moriarty has opted for a dark navy blue, a classic colour for business. Sarah Arthur (Sherlock’s Costume designer) said about the skull tie: “It just worked - because it had a sinister feel”. McQueen’s ties are currently priced at £90 / $138
Moriarty’s shirt is by Saville Row’s Spencer Hart. Hart’s shirts are known for their interesting weaves and fabrics. Moriarty’s shirt is weaved in a Piqué style which makes it stiffer than the other shirts seen in the show and makes an aesthetically pleasing contrast against his silk tie, causing it to stand out more. Spencer Hart is also known for it’s rounded collars which are quite period in their shape and have become a more uncommon collar style in the last decade. However, they will always be a classic in men’s fashion. Spencer Hart shirts are priced around the £150 / $230 mark.
We only see Moriarty twice in The Great Game. The first time we see him he is wearing an outfit to trick Sherlock to think he is a slightly awkward gay guy from the IT department - so not his usual choice of clothing. The second time is at a planned meeting with Sherlock, so i would assume he made an effort to dress appropriately (perhaps to impress?) for the ocassion. His suit ultimately says business; it’s a city suit that he’s personalised to make completely his own. But who knows how he dresses when he’s not intending to blow up consulting detectives and ex-Army doctors - perhaps we shall find out in series 2.
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