WEARSHERLOCK: A blog that revolves around the wardrobe and props department of the BBC show 'Sherlock', featuring Benedict Cumberbatch, Martin Freeman and Mark Gatiss.
This blog showcases the clothes and props seen in the show as well as providing links as to where to buy them. We often host Sherlock related giveaways. You can check our current giveaway status here. We are not affiliated with the BBC.
I suppose you could call this ‘A Study in Mycroft’s tie’.
Since The Great Game aired people have been looking for their own version of Mycroft’s famous umbrella tie and have been so far unsuccessful in their findings. Well, that’s possibly because there’s a high chance it doesn’t exist.
Unpopular opinion time: We here at wearsherlock think that after closer inspection (Blu-Ray caps enhanced in Photoshop) that the pattern on the tie is not that of umbrellas, but actually birds. As can be seen outlined in the image above, you can clearly see the shape of the wings and the head of the bird. Breed of bird we’re not sure, but it could be a goose (in particular a Canada goose, thank you to mickulty.) There are literally hundreds of tie patterns featuring birds as it’s quite a popular design. Grouse, pheasant and ducks are most popular.
Of course, we’ve outlined the umbrella theory too but when you look very close it doesn’t really look like an umbrella. Where is the curve of the handle and why is the stick so thick and misshapen? Ultimately why is this tie impossible to find?
So, to conclude this rather short entry and solve the mystery of Mycroft’s tie we’re going to come right out and say it - Mycroft’s tie is not an umbrella tie. Sorry, but it’s not.
For those of you who are upset by this (i know i am!), we’ve just posted an umbrella tie by J Crew that we’re sure Mycroft would love. You can find it here.
A study in Moriarty
Probably the only clothing brand that every single Sherlock fan knows is that of Moriarty’s two piece suit. After John has bravely grabbed the arch-enemy in question to give Sherlock a chance to escape Moriarty announces that his suit is Westwood as he readjusts himself. The Westwood of which he speaks is of course that of Vivienne Westwood.
Vivienne Westwood
Vivienne Westwood is known for her sometimes extreme punk and new wave styling but her range also includes some classically smart and sharply tailored designs. Moriarty’s choice is just that - a two button classic. However, often even classic Vivienne Westwood suits feature a skull and crossbone lining.
Cuffs, lapels and buttons
Westwood’s trademark buttons are a dark amber colour with the brand logo engraved into each. The logo features an orb similar to the British crown jewels with a satellite strip circling around it which gives it a punky, modern feel. The jacket is single breasted (one column of buttons) and the bottom button is undone as the general rule with two button suits. When John grabs Moriarty the logo-embellished buttons of his jacket are easily visible.
These personalised buttons also feature on the cuffs of Westwood’s jackets. Two buttons on the sleeve (as compared to the more common four) is usually the case for city suits and Westwood’s classic range. Cuff buttons often serve no other purpose than pure decoration and aren’t functional. Westwood’s buttons are the same. Moriarty’s cuff buttons are visible when he lifts his hands to make his boastful ‘Westwood’ statement (see image).
Moriarty’s lapels are a simple ‘step’ design (called notch lapels in America). They’re quite thin and the mouth of the notch is an average, medium size. Step lapels are sometimes considered to be the smartest but come in a few different styles based on where the collar meets the lapel and what shape it is. Moriarty’s is very high on his lapel as is common for modern suit styles.
The single vented, slim fit jacket features three pockets: two flap pockets and one breast pocket. The British rolled-shoulder design lifts the fabric at his shoulders slightly, giving the effect that he is actually more built than he is. The worsted fabric is a bright navy and is 100% wool. As covered in A Study in Pocket Squares Moriarty wears a simple white square in a clean edge style. Westwood’s current season of the two button classic is available on her website for £600 / $921
Alexander McQueen
As previously posted, Moriarty wears an Alexander McQueen tie featuring a mix of polka dots and trademark McQueen skulls. The tie is 100% silk and he has tied it in a half-Windsor knot. At five centimeters wide his tie is considered a ‘skinny’ tie. Moriarty’s build means skinny ties suit his frame well. The tie complements the rest of his suit as it is a similar width to his lapels. Generally, the wider your lapels, the wider your tie. McQueen’s tie is available in many different colours but Moriarty has opted for a dark navy blue, a classic colour for business. Sarah Arthur (Sherlock’s Costume designer) said about the skull tie: “It just worked - because it had a sinister feel”. McQueen’s ties are currently priced at £90 / $138
Spencer Hart
Moriarty’s shirt is by Saville Row’s Spencer Hart. Hart’s shirts are known for their interesting weaves and fabrics. Moriarty’s shirt is weaved in a Piqué style which makes it stiffer than the other shirts seen in the show and makes an aesthetically pleasing contrast against his silk tie, causing it to stand out more. Spencer Hart is also known for it’s rounded collars which are quite period in their shape and have become a more uncommon collar style in the last decade. However, they will always be a classic in men’s fashion. Spencer Hart shirts are priced around the £150 / $230 mark.
We only see Moriarty twice in The Great Game. The first time we see him he is wearing an outfit to trick Sherlock to think he is a slightly awkward gay guy from the IT department - so not his usual choice of clothing. The second time is at a planned meeting with Sherlock, so i would assume he made an effort to dress appropriately (perhaps to impress?) for the ocassion. His suit ultimately says business; it’s a city suit that he’s personalised to make completely his own. But who knows how he dresses when he’s not intending to blow up consulting detectives and ex-Army doctors - perhaps we shall find out in series 2.
PREVIOUS STUDY: Phones
NEXT STUDY: Mycroft’s umbrella tie
What are pocket squares? When a handkerchief is used as an accessory to a suit it is known as a pocket square. Pocket squares come in every colour and pattern and there are a multitude of ways of folding them. They are always worn in the left breast pocket of a suit. The best fabrics for pocket squares are silk, linen and cotton. Their original use was for wiping the hands or face but since the 1920’s, when pocket squares became the height of fashion, they’ve served no other purpose than a fashion accessory.
Basic pocket square rules: It’s never good to match your pocket square with your tie but have them complement each other instead. A pocket square that picks out a minor or secondary colour in the rest of your outfit is a good choice. Contrasting textures are sure to look great, such as a silk tie and handwoven linen square. Monograms or labels should never show.
Ways of folding a pocket square: When displaying a pocket square on your person it’s best to make it look effortless and by no means perfect. Don’t ever iron a pocket square into shape! The most basic look for a square is a simple clean edge that runs parallel to your pocket. More flamboyant folding methods for example would involve having all four corners of the square protrude from the pocket or having a ‘poof’ (yes, that’s a technical term!) stick out in a curve or point. It all depends on the wearer’s personal preference.
What pocket squares say about their wearer: The confident gentlemen will usually wear a silk pocket square with a more elegant or striking pattern. Thai silk is the best quality fabric for pocket squares. Machine hemmed or irregular stitching says cheap. The finest pocket squares have hand rolled edges and should be in a tight tube. Regular and mostly hidden stitching is a sure sign of a quality square.
And now the most important part of the article!
The part on the actual character’s pocket squares.
1) The Mycroft
Mycroft wears two different pocket squares throughout the first series. The first time we see him he has folded his linen red and white paisley design into a triangular point. It is commonplace to point pocket squares away from the heart but Mycroft’s points towards his. He’s a rule breaker! In The Great Game he is wearing a red Thai silk square which has been folded to show all four corners (one of which hangs down slightly over the lip of his pocket). The red square, blue tie and white shirt combo is very British Government(!). Mycroft’s look is a confident one, using classic fabric but folding flamboyantly shows he has flair under his serious exterior.
2) The Sebastian
Sebastian’s square is my favourite in the whole series. His is an olive green and brown large paisley print that’s been classically folded but shows bulk beneath. It protrudes from his pocket quite a bit and offsets his (also striking) tie brilliantly. His pocket square is a perfect example of Sebastian’s character: showy, proud and confident.
3) The Moriarty
Moriarty’s whole look is classic. He requires no frills. He’s opted for a plain white linen square folded in the basic clean edge style that requires the least amount of effort but often looks the most smart. It’s a common look for business. His square only just shows from his pocket and really makes the skulls on his tie stand out. However, it does also show a lack of personality (and possibly a lack of confidence) and could be described by some as dull, however I can’t imagine Moriarty wearing anything but white.
Whilst writing the article I realised something. Moriarty and Mycroft wear the exact same tie pin (if you click the images to enlarge you’ll see it better). It’s a simple gold bar with a black jewel in the center. Perhaps they share the same tastes when it comes to style. Perhaps the BBC costume department just ran out of ideas!
PREVIOUS STUDY: Mycroft’s pocket watch.
NEXT STUDY: Ties.
A study in Mycroft’s pocket watch.
Seen only briefly in The Great Game and A Study in Pink is Mycroft’s pocket watch. From what can be seen of it a few observations can be made.
Materials: Mycroft has opted for a more classic silver pocket watch rather than the more lavish gold, most likely sterling silver.
Style: Hunter. This style features a spring hinged cover that closes fully over the face to protect it. Mycroft reads his watch with the cover open at the 9 o’clock position which most likely means it is a vintage piece as opposed to a more modern pocket watch. Vintage hunter-case watches were hinged at the 9 o’clock position and read sideways. Modern lower quality hunter cases open at the 6 o’clock position.
Fastening: In The Great Game (see image) Mycroft wears his pocket watch with a simple silver Double-Albert style chain, one of the most authentic British styles since the 1800’s. The chain is held in place with a T-bar (which fits through the waistcoat button-hole) and has two complete chains. One chain is attached to the watch and the other can hold things such as a cigar cutter or knife and is put into the opposite pocket. Double-Albert chains were a distinct sign of status in the Victorian age. In A Study in Pink, Mycroft wears a single albert chain with a large silver fob drop (and it’s very hard to see!). The fob is quite a lot larger than usual so is most likely decorative - on closer inspection (meaning, moving closer to my computer screen!) it appears it could be in the shape of a heart, but this could be wishful thinking on my part.
Brand: We think canon Mycroft would have gone for a Waltham pocket watch, an American company that started producing pocket watches in 1850. Early Waltham watches fetch up to £6,000 today but aren’t often used for time keeping as they’re more museum pieces. BBC Mycroft may still own an antique as he probably takes very good care of his pocket watches but most likely owns something like a Bond Hilton. (Or perhaps Mark Gatiss’ own!)
NEXT STUDY: pocket squares.
